Hunting Gear

Hunting Knife Buyer's Guide: What You Need to Know

Keith Sutton — Thu, 30 Jul 2020 06:00:00 +0000

Hunting Knife Buyer's Guide: What You Need to Know

Keith Sutton Thu, 07/30/2020 - 01:00

Category

When I was 12 years old, my grandmother gave me a beautiful fixed-blade hunting knife in a leather sheath that had belonged to my grandfather. I was just learning to hunt then, and that knife became one of my biggest treasures. It hung from my belt everywhere I went, and for 35 years, I used it for everything from skinning game to cutting rope and poles for makeshift shelters. I gave the knife to my youngest son who also was learning the joys of hunting. It has been his constant hunting companion as well.

Buck's Cherrywood Series 119 Special is a
good example of a traditional fixed-blade
hunting knife.

Hunting knives are important utensils, of course, but for many people like me, knives also have value that extends beyond their usefulness in the field. They are keepsakes as well and often passed along from one generation to another. That's one reason when buying a new hunting knife, we want to be assured our purchase is a wise one. A quality knife will perform many valuable tasks when we're hunting and will last many, many years if properly cared for.

Before purchasing a hunting knife, here are some things you should consider.

I've had this knife (Buck's Cherrywood Series 119) for almost 20 years. Use it on deer mostly. It maintains an excellent edge and has been through many a breast plate. Easy to hone. The best knife I've got!

How Do You Intend to Use the Knife?

To begin, if you're looking for a knife that will perform one specific task well — skinning a deer, for example, or cutting branches around your hunting stand — then you may want to choose a specialty knife made with one particular purpose in mind. On the other hand, if you buy a specialty knife to use as a multi-purpose tool for backcountry camping, it probably won't perform many of the tasks you might need it for. Always start the selection process by choosing a design that's best suited for the chores the knife is intended to handle.

Leatherman OHT Multi-Tool

If you want a general-purpose knife that can be used for a variety of tasks, be sure it's made with all the features you need. A good traditional fixed-blade hunting knife, for example, is adequate for field-dressing and skinning game and other jobs such as cutting rope or twine, whittling tinder for fire-building and cutting up food. But if you might need a screwdriver or pliers to work on your ATV in the backwoods, a good multi-tool like the Leatherman OHT Multi-Tool is what you need.

SwingBlade Drop Point
Skinner/Big Game Gutting Knife

Depending on the type of hunting you do, you might decide you really need more than one knife. For example, when hunting big game such as deer, I carry a fixed-blade knife with a rugged synthetic handle. A drop-point blade like the Outdoor Edge SwingBlaze SwingBlade Drop Point Skinner is great for skinning, and a sawlike edge on the spine of the knife is handy for separating bone, cutting kindling around camp or trimming branches around my treestand.

SOG Trident Clip Point Folding Knife

When hunting small game such as rabbits, squirrels and birds, I prefer a bone-handled pocket knife with a clip-point blade and a fowl hook that's helpful when gutting small game birds. It's lightweight for long walks in the field and stays out of the way in a pocket

What Size of Hunting Knife Do You Want?

There's something macho about wielding a big, imposing knife like the ones carried by the title characters in the movies Crocodile Dundee and Rambo. But knives with huge blades really have no practical use for hunters. They make pretty good substitutes for hatchets or machetes but aren't useful for skinning game or other common hunting tasks.

Once you realize this, the size of the knife you choose will really come down to personal preference and practical considerations. If you need a knife only for cleaning game birds or squirrels, you'll want something on the small side that's light and fits in a pocket. If you're hunting elk, however, something a bit bigger and sturdier might be more useful when it's time to quarter the animal and pack it out. The main thing is to be sure the knife, regardless of its size, fits comfortably in your hand and you can grip it firmly so it doesn't slip or fall from your grasp.

What to Buy, a Fixed Blade or Folding Knife?

Cabela's Alaskan Guide Series
Vantage Folding Knife by Buck Knives

Hunting knives have fixed blades or folding blades, which are just what the names imply. Fixed-blade knives are permanently fixed in an open position. Folding knives have a pivot point that allows the blade to fold closed into the handle. Here are some pros and cons of each:

Fixed Blade Knife Pros:

Stronger because blade material runs through the handle; good for heavy-duty work
No moving parts so more durable and reliable
Much easier to clean than folding knives

Fixed Blade Knife Cons:

Longer than most folding knives and must be carried in a sheath; bulkier, less safe in transport than folding knives
Often get in the way when climbing or even sitting

Folding Blade Knife Pros:

Smaller size allows convenient carry in a pocket, on a belt sheath or otherwise stowed when not in use
Very safe in transport
Mechanisms on many allow convenient one-handed opening
Good choice for hunters who also want a knife for everyday use

Folding Blade Knife Cons:

Not as strong as fixed-blade knives
Using the release latch on locking-blade folders can be inconvenient
Difficult to clean because blade channel collects blood, tissue, etc.

Consider Knife Blade Design

Most hunting knives incorporate one of three main blade designs: drop point, clip point or skinning.

If you hunt big game primarily, consider a drop-point hunting knife. This type features a thick, curved blade that usually is stronger than other types. It is excellent for skinning animals because you can use the entire edge, not just the point. This makes the job of skinning easier, faster and results in less loss of meat. In a pinch, a drop-point also can be used instead of a saw or hatchet for splitting bones in a game animal's rib cage and pelvis.

The clip-point blade is thinner, flatter and has a more well-defined point than the drop point. It can be used for the same tasks as the drop point but is not as efficient at skinning, splitting and gutting. However, the clip-point knife, which more closely resembles a generic work knife, is a good choice for hunters who plan to use the knife for purposes other than just hunting.

Knives of Alaska Magnum Ulu Skinning Knife

Skinning knives are designed specifically for the task of skinning medium to large game. The highly sweeping blade is made to effortlessly separate flesh from skin, a real timesaver for hunters who butcher their own game. An added bonus is the fact that the skinning knife can do most other game-cleaning chores as well as clip-point and drop-point designs.

A feature of many blades you may want to consider is a gut hook. The hunter makes a starting incision with a regular blade, then uses the gut hook to extend the incision without puncturing any of the animal's entrails. This is a very useful tool when field-dressing big game.

Some knives also come with several interchangeable blades, allowing the user to swap one blade for another when different blade types are needed for particular tasks.

The Types of Knife Blade Material to Choose

Havalon's Piranta-Edge skinning knife may
be perfectly suitable for hunters who
primarily pursue small game such as quail
and rabbits.

The type of steel used in the blade is another important consideration when buying a hunting knife. This determines how well you can sharpen your knife, how well it will hold its edge after you sharpen it, and how well it will hold up to years of use in the field. The best blade materials exhibit high edge retention, toughness, corrosion resistance and wear resistance. It's not possible to discuss all the different types in the limited space here, but the following are among the best for hunting knives.

S30V: This high-end, high-vanadium steel offers an exception combination of toughness, wear resistance and rust resistance. S30V blades are a little hard to sharpen but retain an edge much better than most blades made with other materials.
154CM: This high-carbon stainless steel has a high wear resistance, and its hardness allows it to retain an edge very well. It is one of the more brittle stainless steels, however, and in general works best on smaller blades.
VG-10: This high-wear stainless steel is in the same class as 154CM but offers superior corrosion resistance and extended edge retention.
420HC: This medium-carbon stainless steel is extremely corrosion resistant but has a lower hardness than the other types, making it much easier to sharpen. Edge stability is in the mid-range.

Knife Handles: Look for Durability

Don't overlook the handle when shopping for a knife. Wood, leather and bone handles are very functional and often more aesthetically pleasing, but these materials may not offer the durability many hunters want and can be difficult to grip firmly when wet with blood or water. Synthetic handle materials such as Zytel, Kraton and ABS, which offer a good combination of sure grip and economy, are excellent options. Synthetics also are lightweight and virtually unbreakable.

For safety's sake, the handle of a hunting knife also should have a finger stop, contour or other guard at the junction of the handle and blade that stops the user's hand from sliding forward on the blade.

The ultimate test of any knife handle is how it feels in your hand. A knife is useless if it's uncomfortable to hold. Two problems are handles that are too small, which cause you to overgrip and tire your forearm, and handles that are too big, which make it difficult to control a knife. If possible, hold the knife before you buy it and make sure you can handle it comfortably during extended use.

Bottom line

Choosing the correct hunting knife has more to do with personal preference than anything else. But by incorporating the information above into your decision-making process, you can be much more certain the knife you buy is the very best hunting knife for you and your needs.

Region

International

Hunting Boots Buyer's Guide

Bass Pro Shops Cabelas — Mon, 11 May 2020 16:40:18 +0000

Hunting Boots Buyer's Guide

Bass Pro Shops… Mon, 05/11/2020 - 11:40

Category

Hunting Gear

Proper hunting boots can make or break your hunt – make sure
you're equipped with a good-fitting pair

You may not think of a pair of boots as a personal item, but to be happy and have happy feet after a day in the field, you need to match your boot to your body - not just your feet. Shop Cabela's entire lineup of hunting boots.

Cabela's Iron Ridge Hunting Boots

At this point you are probably thinking this guy’s nuts, but we are all as different as apples and oranges. Obviously, we all have different size feet, and most people are aware of the fact that they have two different size feet, but that’s not the issue. Our internal thermostat is as important to picking a pair of boots as the right length and width. In fact, according to Cabela’s hunting and hiking footwear product manager, it’s one of the big four - fit, ventilation, insulation and intent.

If you’ll consider these four factors carefully, when buying your next pair of boots, you’ll be much happier. Curiously enough, the first three are closely tied to the last. How you intend on using a pair of boots will have a major impact on your ventilation and insulation needs as well as the ultimate fit you’ll need.

Fit would seem like a fairly straightforward deal, but you’d be surprised how many people buy a pair of boots after trying them on with an everyday pair of casual socks, when they intend on hunting or hiking with a wool sock or a combination of a wool sock and a liner sock. The best advice is to try on your boots with the socks or combination of socks you plan to wear during your planned activity.

Cabela's Inferno Insulated Pac Boots

Insulation is the number one factor in a technical boot’s properties that affects warmth, but the key issue in selecting the level of insulation you need is two pronged. First of all, what is your body makeup and secondly, how will you use the boot?

The insulation required to maintain your level of comfort will vary widely based on the intended activity. Sitting in a duck blind, or on a treestand in 10 degree weather requires more insulation because the amount of physical activity is minimal. When you’re walking up pheasants or stalking elk, your toes are moving constantly, which increases circulation and your body is pumping lots of hot blood. Sit down and all that heat generating activity is over, as is your toe’s comfort. Less insulation is needed for a high level of activity, and more is needed for sedentary activities.

Be aware that we all have a different internal thermostat. Many people have either hot or cold feet that require drastically different boots for similar activities and conditions. Knowing your body’s tendency is very important.

Insulation

Thinsulate™ is an excellent insulation choice because it provides a great deal of warmth without excessive bulk and weight. The insulation-rating factor for boots is always listed in grams. This is not an actual measurement of the total mass of insulation, but a shortened form of grams per square meter of the fabric. The utility of insulation can be broken down into three functional levels.

Uninsulated to 200 gram: These boots are best for early season and high activity levels.
400 gram to 800 gram: This is the most popular category of hunting boots with insulation levels that cover most fall hunting situations.
1000 gram and up: These boots are designed for colder, winter weather and more sedentary activities.

Waterproofness

Your intended activities should be carefully analyzed when it comes to moisture exposure. Hunting tends to have some degree of moisture involved, no matter what species you’re pursuing. Since most hunts start out early in the morning, walking through grass that is heavily laden with dew can accumulate enough to quickly soak through unprotected leathers and fabrics. Nothing will send you back to the truck or cabin quicker than wet feet on a cold day.

A waterproof membrane sewn into the lining between your foot and the outer shell is the most common form of making a boot waterproof. One of Cabela’s preferred methods of hunting boot construction utilizes a full GORE-TEX® bootie. The reason? GORE-TEX is the premium waterproof, breathable membrane in the footwear industry. Fully taped seams in a bootie that totally surrounds your foot assures you’ll have waterproof protection to the top of your boot. GORE-TEX booties also breathe to allow perspiration vapor to pass through, keeping your feet dry and comfortable.

Boot designs and styles
You’ll find many different styles of boots on the market, but most fit into three basic categories: Upland, Multi-Purpose and High Country boots.

Once you’ve determined what you are going to use a pair of boots for, and what properties are important to that pursuit, pick one of these three categories to narrow your search.

Upland boots

Irish Setter Ravine Upland Hunting Boots

Upland boots are designed for lightweight walking comfort, with a soil-shedding sole and a lighter lug design. Upland bird hunters put on a lot of miles and don’t need a lot of weight to carry along, or a design that accumulates heavy mud along the way. A heavy-lugged sole isn’t needed for traction, and support isn’t generally an issue, since most upland hunting is done on moderate terrain.

A good example of a lightweight upland bird boot would be Kangaroo Upland Boots, stating that ounce for ounce it is hard to find a tougher boot. Kangaroo leather is lighter and stronger than cowhide of equal thickness. Another option is the Upland Premier™, which uses extremely soft Pittards leather from England, for broke-in comfort right out of the box. The addition of a full GORE-TEX® bootie ensures that your feet stay dry. Both the Kangaroo Featherlight and the Upland Premier™ are offered in uninsulated versions for the early season and in Thinsulate insulated models for chasing wild roosters through November and December.

Multi-purpose Boots

This is the largest category of hunting boots available. Every option is available in this category, depending on your own specific wants and needs. You’ll find an excellent choice for either big-game or upland hunting and for the hunter that wants one boot that can cover most of their activities. Boots in this category are designed to be durable, long lasting, and provide excellent traction on a variety of surfaces. Many levels of insulation are also available, so you can mix and match features with various levels of insulation to obtain just the right combination for your all-around needs.

In general terms, boots in the multi-purpose category will have more support than upland versions, to accommodate tougher terrain. You’ll also find heavier lugged soles that provide better traction on multiple surfaces.

High Country boots

Zamberlan 981 Wasatch GTX Boots

Hunters going after big game such as elk, deer or sheep that inhabit rugged, steep terrain require additional support from their footwear. The rough country can result in a hunt ending prematurely due to a twisted ankle with lesser boots. On a hunt of this caliber you might spend all day climbing, just to get close to a bull or ram you spotted the day before, and on pack hunts, carrying an extra pair of boots for tough situations isn’t an option. One pair has to do it all. This category of boots is designed for the most demanding high elevation hunts, for extreme durability and support for your foot and ankle. Cabela’s Mountain Hunter™, as well as all of Cabela’s boots produced by Meindl are excellent choices that will cover your season from August archery through November rifle seasons.

Hikers

Our discussion has revolved around hunting boots, but Cabela’s has an excellent selection of boots in their hiking selection that serve well for hunting. These hiking boots are especially good for early season archery hunts, such as bugling elk. These shorter, lighter boots may help you succeed in the field by improving your mobility, as well as your strength to stay in the hunt.

Overboots

Another option to consider, for sedentary hunts would be overboots or boot insulators. This line of products is designed to be carried to your stand or blind, and then slipped on when you are in position. They have insulation properties that will protect you down to as low as -110F, and simplify the choice of boots so you don’t have to expect one pair to cover all of the seasonal extremes from August to January.

Rubber Hunting Boots

Cabela's Comfort Trac Rubber Boots

When conditions are sloppy or you have creeks, marshes or swamps to traverse, rubber hunting boots are the best option. Rubber boots are scent-free and 100% watertight, a feature that can make the difference between a comfortable day in the field and one that sends you to the truck shivering.

All quality rubber boots are made of vulcanized rubber. Vulcanizing is a specific curing process that involves high heat and the addition of sulfur to the rubber. During this chemical process polymer molecules are linked to other polymer molecules by atomic bridges composed of sulfur atoms, resulting in springy rubber molecules that are harder and more durable.

Rubber boots can be separated into good, better and best categories. Insulation is an option with most models in all three categories, with up to 2000 gram being the heaviest insulation offered. Additional features that indicate boot quality include a shovel guard and heel kicker. The shovel guard is a strip of rubber that is bonded to the bottom arch, which gives added protection for digging or climbing. Heel kickers are made of molded hard rubber, and extend behind the heel to make removal easier. Side-entry zippers or side gussets with buckles also make getting rubber boots on and off a much easier process.

Boots that fall into the "good" category have an ankle-fit design for a comfortable fit that doesn’t slip while walking. "Better" boots incorporate an improved rubber outsole for enhanced traction and support, and wider insulation levels may be offered.

Boots that fall into the "best" category are more technical in construction and performance. They have a neoprene lining that increases warmth, a wool felt insole that acts as a barrier to the cold, an EVA midsole and rubber outsole that is wider, more rigid and offers more cushion and support for the feet and ankles – very similar to the technology offered in running shoes.

Other options to consider include steel toes and snakeproof construction. Steel toes are preferred for industrial or construction use, but they’re also a feature you’ll appreciate if you drop a heavy piece of firewood on your toe. Snakeproof boots are lined with an extremely dense nonwoven backer material and an extra layer of rubber in the vamps that is impenetrable by fangs or other sharp objects.

All rubber boots should be properly stored in a cool, dry location when not in use to avoid deterioration of the rubber and bonding.

Once you’ve narrowed your boot choice keep these points in mind:

Make sure they fit right - Most problems in the field with boots all lead back to the original fit. A boot must fit properly before you can reap the benefits of the intended design. Cabela’s offers an excellent variety of sizes, styles and widths that can provide the right fit for virtually any hunter.

Don’t get a boot that is too short - Boots that are too short can cause big problems in the field. Your toe will press against the front of the boot and cause painful issues, especially when traveling downhill. With boots that are already too short, you also don’t have room to layer socks for additional warmth or comfort.

Allow ample break-in time - Boots need to be broken in and formed to your feet. Taking stiff, new boots on a weeklong backcountry hunt only spells trouble. The amount of break-in time required varies with boot construction, but in general, more supportive boots will require a longer break-in period.

Take proper care of your boots - You don’t want to wear out your new best friend to early. A properly broke-in boot is conformed to your foot, flexible and is probably one of the most comfortable pieces of footwear you will own. Leather, while durable, can wear prematurely, especially when wet, if not treated properly. By purchasing the proper care products, such as several offered by NikWax, you can soften and waterproof the leathers on your boots to prevent them from wearing out prematurely.

Don’t Forget Socks - If you just bought a quality pair of boots, bargain basement socks will not add to your comfort. You are working against yourself with a moisture-absorbing sock in a boot that is designed to wick away moisture and breathe. Cabela’s offers a full line of properly designed socks that do not absorb moisture, but instead are designed to transport it out of your footwear. This will allow the breathable system of your boots to work properly and keep your feet dry.

Region

United States

Rubber Boots Buyer's Guide

Bass Pro Shops Cabelas — Wed, 11 Sep 2019 16:21:30 +0000

Rubber Boots Buyer's Guide

Bass Pro Shops… Wed, 09/11/2019 - 11:21

Category

Hunting Gear

Rubber boots have evolved from all-purpose "mucking-around" rain boots to highly engineered hunting boots, work boots and even snake boots. They offer an edge over traditional hunting boots because they're not only durable, abrasion-resistant and waterproof, but also scent-free. Most all-purpose rubber boots are one piece on the outside, from the bottom of the soles to the top of the collars. This is achieved through a process called vulcanization. Rubber is treated with a curative substance that is formed into precise shapes and dimensions, bonding the rubber in such a way that it's one solid unit. This process is responsible for the waterproof and scent-free attributes as there are no pores for water or scents to get trapped in. The vulcanization process also helps prevent fading, chipping or peeling. Rubber boots built without vulcanization are bonded using strong, waterproof adhesives.

Anatomy

Uppers – Made from neoprene or rubber, the uppers cover your feet from the soles up. The tops are called collars. The type of material used to construct the uppers impacts their weight, warmth factor, durability and water-protection level.

Neoprene - A synthetic rubber resistant to most oils, chemicals and liquids. Less resistant to cuts, punctures and abrasion. Lightweight, insulating and often paired with laminate finishes for added durability and water protection.
Rubber - Natural rubber resists water, bases, acids, alcohols and diluted-water solutions except for petroleum- and oil-based solvents. Extremely resistant to cuts and punctures. Offers supreme slip protection.

Other components of the uppers - Every piece plays an important role, and understanding these will further help your choice in picking the right boots.

Protective overlays - Seen on the toes and around the Achilles tendon areas, these provide added stubbing and abrasion protection from rough terrain, such as riverbeds, muddy forest floors and rocky trails.
Zippers - Provide easy on and off.
Gussets - These create a stretchy section in the sides of the uppers to accommodate different calf sizes. They also provide flexibility and breathability. All Cabela's rubber boots with gussets have cinch buckles over the gussets to achieve a secure fit.
Buckles - Positioned at the outer topsides of the uppers, these adjust to tighten around your calves for a secure fit and a snug seal to keep debris out of your boots.
Linings - Linings can aid in breathability, especially in vulcanized rubber boots, which don't allow anything to pass through. Mesh and fleece are popular linings, depending on the type of boots.

Soles - Rubber boots soles have three components: the insoles, midsoles and outsoles. The soles are attached to the uppers through vulcanization or with waterproof adhesive.

Insoles - Often removable, these directly touch and cushion your feet.

Midsoles - Provide stability, disperse weight and absorb shock. Incorporated shanks made of steel or fiberglass provide stiffness and even more support to the bottom of the boots. Midsoles with steel shanks are used in rubber boots used for hunting, and protect your arches when you're climbing a treestand ladder.

Outsoles - Made from durable molded rubber, these are what help keep you on your feet. Lugs or cleats on the bottoms - protruding rubber tips that provide traction and help shed mud - provide you with traction and are made in varying types of patterns. Lugs vary in size according to the type of boots they're on. Self-cleaning outsoles have a distinct pattern on the bottom that shed mud and debris when flexed, giving you superior traction with every step.

Specialty Features

Knowing the pros and cons and necessity of different "extras" will help ensure you have the right boots for the job without spending too much or buying something you don't need.

Insulated - Intended for use in colder conditions, insulation is measured by neoprene thickness (3mm to 8mm) or by the weight of Thinsulate™ Ultra Insulation (400 gram to 2,000 gram) integrated into the linings. Keep in mind that while it might not feel cold outside, any water you might be standing in for extended periods of time may be noticeably colder, necessitating insulated rubber boots. Insulated boots, on average, are rated to keep you warm in temperatures from -40°F to 50°F.

Uninsulated - Intended for use in warmer weather, these can be made with or without linings.

Ankle- and heel-considerate designs - Some rubber boots are designed to lock your feet in place for superior comfort and ankle support on long walks to and from your hunting location. This design also prevents your boots from being sucked off your feet in deep, aggressive mud and bogs.

Camouflage - Perfect for hunting, rubber boots are available in varying camouflage patterns for different seasons.

Varying shaft lengths - For deeper waters and mud or for more versatile leg protection, rubber boots are designed in heel-to-collar heights from 6" to 18" on average. Others are offered in a more convenient, Romeo-style for easy on and off.

Heel kicks - Rubber boots can be a challenge to get off, especially after hours on the trail or trudging through a bog. Heel kicks integrated into the lower heel sections, help you dislodge your heels to pull them off easier.

Steel toes - Steel toes are integrated into some rubber boots for added protection in hazardous fields of work, such as mining, ranching and farming.

Types

Hunting - Rubber boots designed for hunting will generally be made from a combination of neoprene and rubber, and are always waterproof. They generally have a camo pattern or brown color for better concealment from your prey, and give you the advantage of a scent-free trail. They are offered in both insulated and uninsulated versions.

All-purpose - These are great for ranching, farming, checking your irrigation or any situation that warrants avoiding wet, cold feet. While some designs resemble the traditional Wellingtons of the past, more all-purpose rubber boots feature insulation, improved tread and even stylish patterns and bright colors. Snake protection - A specialty type of rubber boots, these offer you extra protection from fang punctures. Whether you're wading through water or walking through tall grass or brush, these boots will provide the extra protection you need, thanks to collar-height shin guards.

When to Replace Your Rubber Boots

Like any equipment, rubber boots are going to wear out; when they wear out depends on how long you've had them, how much you've worn them and what kind of weather they've been through. Knowing when they're shot is key to ensuring a positive outdoor experience, as well as having healthy feet to carry you through to your next venture. Replace your boots if:

Other Factors

To ensure a long life for your boots and a comfortable experience for your feet, make sure you're wearing the best Cabela's socks or sock liners for your activity. Stay away from 100% cotton socks, as these retain moisture instead of wicking it away from your skin - wearing these with low-breathability boots, such as rubber boots, is just asking for blisters. Your best choice of socks should be made of wool or a wool blend to wick moisture away from your feet. From lightweight to heavyweight, over-the-calf to no-shows, Cabela's offers the right socks to outfit your needs.

The soles are worn smooth (lugs are gone) and no longer provide adequate traction.
If water begins to seep in and a patch kit won't fix it - a sign the rubber has cracked or the seams are unsealing.
If you get blisters in places you didn't used to before.
If the linings become worn with visible holes.
If they come off your feet more easily, when they did not before.

Region

United States

Get the Ultimate Hunt Camp – Cabela's Tents

Bass Pro Shops Cabelas — Tue, 20 Aug 2019 14:46:55 +0000

Get the Ultimate Hunt Camp – Cabela's Tents

Bass Pro Shops… Tue, 08/20/2019 - 09:46

Category

Hunting Gear

Whether you hunt regularly from a tent or are considering one for the first time, the Cabela's Outfitter Series tents and the Outback Lodge tents are equipped with many of the amenities a hunting or fishing party needs.

When setting up a base camp, you'll want a hunting tent that sets up quickly, can handle all types of weather, total bug protection, and lots of room to stand-up. A hunting camp tent is more than just a place to sleep, it's your home away from home for a few days. Be sure you have a good tent ventilation system for summer heat and in winter's cold ventilation is a must when using a wood stove.

The Cabela's Alaknak Outfitter Tent reigns supreme, but there's another option that's often overlooked. A great hunt camp is also possible with Cabela's Outback Lodge Tent. Let's take a look at tent options and a few other important camp equipment needs.

Cabela's Outback Lodge 6-Person Tent

There’s No Such Thing as too Much Room in a Tent

The easy-to-setup Cabela's Outback Lodge tents don't need a rain fly, since the tent fabric has a 1,500mm waterproof-rated coating to keep you dry. Generally, securing the four corners and popping up the center pole takes about five minutes, and is easily replicated if you’ve deployed the tent previously. Secure the numerous side panels and you have one very secure shelter that’s highly spacious and breathable. This storm-ready camp shelter is available in a 6-person tent and an 8-person tent. Additionally, the Outback Lodge comes with a vestibule that is ideal for storing muddy boots, waders, coolers or hunting gear to keep them out of the weather, yet handy as needed.

Cabela's Outback Lodge tent easily accommodated 5 friends on their hunt.

Awesome Tent - Storm Ready

Ok - I have to start this review by saying I don’t have a great history of weather and camping. Purchased this tent with “Family Style” camping in mind and looking for a good sturdy tent that can stand up to the elements. This tent wins hands down.

Eight nights so far in four locations with four severe thunderstorms including 50+ mph winds and hail, and the tent still looks brand new. Never had an issue with water inside or rips/damage from the hail. Floor stayed dry inside at all times including when there was obviously water pooling between the tent and the ground tarp. Would highly recommend to anyone looking for a new tent.

Shop Cabela's Outback Lodge 6-Person Tent

Shop Cabela's Outback Lodge 8-Person Tent

Tip: Shop Hunting Camp Equipment

Cabela's Ultimate Alaknak 12'x20' Outfitter Tent

The Cabela's Outfitter Series tents are the ultimate rugged, traditional wall tent offering extreme outdoor protection. Built for the backcountry, they feature extra-tall 3'8"- 5' walls and 9'+ center height that offers lots of head room for easy maneuvering inside the tent. The nice height makes standing, dressing and organizing gear much easier than in small tents,and there’s plenty of room for recreational gear and pets. Fold-down shelves on the sidewalls featuring cup holders and gear pockets and 5" stove jack in roof with roll-away storm flap for safe use.

Own 2!

Outfitter Tents in heavy snow

These are awesome tents! Love that floor is attached and why I bought I have the original, but the later model material is much better. Love ease of set up. For many years I have set up alone, often after arriving in the early morning hours of a very long drive. Stake out for corners, put corner posts in while on ground then set up center pole, attach corner lines and stretch ropes and set corner stakes. All in less than 5 minutes, Takes about 5 maybe 10 depending on energy level at 2 am to set rest of stakes, poles, ropes and front, with vestibule set up usually starting stove and setting up beds all in less than 30 minutes.

They are solid in heavy snows and have held up to 40 mph winds for an entire night on more than one occasion. You wonder if it will hold, but always has.

Shop Cabela's Ultimate Alaknak 12'x20' Outfitter Tent

Shop Cabela's Ultimate Alaknak 13'x27' Outfitter Tent

Shop Cabela's Ultimate Alaknak 12'x12' Outfitter Tent

Shop Cabela's Ultimate Alaknak 10'x10' Outfitter Tent

Tent Ventilation & The Greenhouse Effect

Tents with good ventilation will help in preventing condensation. Fine-mesh doors and windows allow fresh air to circulate while keeping annoying mosquitoes outside and well placed vents keep moisture outside in rainy weather.

Tent Floors to Keep Out Ground Moisture

Ground moisture is often a problem when camping. Look for tents that come with a sturdy polyester-oxford floor that resists punctures and keeps bugs and other pests in the great outdoors where they belong. Some tent manufactures recommend also using a tent footprint because overtime grinding the fabric of the tent floor into the ground can wear off the waterproof coating of the floor and perhaps damaging the fabric.

Advantages of Remote Hunting Camps

Cabela's Big Outdoorsman XL Cot

Access is a critical part of most hunting trips. You’ll rarely find big game next to highways, lodges or other places you can get to easily. By packing a mile or two into your public land, you’ll find very few hunters. Additionally, those who hunt near the easy access become “drivers” by pushing game into more remote areas, exactly where you live. Also, most game animals are active early and late, a problem for hunters who must travel by flashlight to reach a stand or mountain saddle. You can be there well ahead of incoming sportsmen and stay until the last minute of legal shooting light.

Tip: The Cabela's Big Outdoorsman XL Cot gives outdoorsmen of all sizes better sleeping comfort they can count on. The water-resistant polyester fabric surface offers a roomy and comfortable 85"x40" sleeping surface.

Tip: Shop all hunting camp cots here

Cabela's Outdoorsman 9000/11250-Watt
Generator

Backcountry hunting provides great personal enjoyment. Many guided hunts involve hours of truck travel to and from hunting areas. That’s convenient, yet it’s miles from the relaxing and exhilarating feeling of a remote camp. Building a campfire, cooking simple yet hearty meals and living like explorers of old creates special feelings and unique experiences.

Tip: Shop all Hunting Camp Generators at cabelas.com here

This isn’t a personal backpacking camp, yet it can easily be packed by a group of four or six persons sharing a hunt. Thanks to the waterproof nature of the material in today's outfitter / lodge tents and the ease of setup, you can hike in the eve of opening day and wake up in the heat of action. Should a sudden snow, rain or windstorm make public access difficult, you have the entire hunting area to yourself.

Bringing a generator to hunt camp is a game changer - watch this video

Region

International

Rifle Scope Buyer's Guide

Bass Pro Shops Cabelas — Sat, 17 Aug 2019 14:35:13 +0000

Rifle Scope Buyer's Guide

Bass Pro Shops… Sat, 08/17/2019 - 09:35

Category

Hunting Gear

Telescopic sights have been around since before the Civil War, but only in the years after World War II did manufacturers revisit the design, making improvements to scopes and ultimately offering hunters reliable equipment that would soon become a standard on modern hunting rifles.

What does a scope do for you?

One of the main uses of a riflescope is to magnify your target, giving you a clearer sight picture than with the naked eye. This not only allows you to shoot more accurately at a greater distance, but it also increases safety, since you can better see the target and what lies behind it.

A scope can also give you more hunting time early and late in the day. These are two prime times for big game to be moving to and from bedding areas, but with iron sights, often there is not enough ambient light available to make an ethical shot. Riflescopes gather available light and make it possible for you to accurately shoot in low-light conditions.

A riflescope also allows a higher level of precision than traditional iron sights. At 100 yds., an iron ramp sight will cover up to 6" of the target. Precise bullet placement is limited by the large amount of the target that is covered. However, riflescopes use various reticles (commonly called crosshairs) that in fine target models only cover an 1/8" at 100 yds. This is the ultimate in precision, allowing you to place a shot exactly where you want every time — even in the same hole as the previous one.

Finally, a riflescope allows you to take full advantage of the modern cartridges and rifles available today. New calibers and rifles shoot flatter, farther, and have more energy than turn-of-the-century models. With a correctly mounted and sighted in riflescope and a little practice, hunters can now make precise shots on game at longer distances than before thought possible.

The numbers and what they mean
When you first look at scopes, you will be in awe of the number and models available. Manufacturers use a series of numbers for comparison, and without knowing what they mean, it is hard to make an accurate comparison.

Power
Commonly a riflescope will be expressed in a series of numbers such as 3.5-10x50 or 4x32 (power-power x objective dia.). Power expresses the magnification as a factor compared to the naked eye. So in a fixed power scope, such as the 4x32, the object in view is magnified four times. An object would appear to be four times closer than it would with the naked eye. Therefore, a higher number has a greater magnification. Most scopes sold today are variable power, such as the 3.5-10 mentioned above. This allows greater versatility, since in this case, the shooter can vary the magnification from 3.5 to up to 10, with infinite values in between.

The power that you select depends on the kind of hunting you will be doing. If you are planning on hunting in close cover, you will want either a low-power fixed scope, such as a 4X or a variable that goes down to 3.5X or even lower. This will give you a wider field of view and allow you to acquire a target quickly in close cover. On the other hand, if long range varmint or target shooting is in your plans, you might want a scope that goes as high as 16X or even 20X. This will allow you to see small prairie dogs or the 10-ring clearly at 400 yds. For all around hunting, a range of 3.5-10 or 4-12 will allow some serious range variation, while still dialing down for close shots.

Objective
The second number in a scope, such as the "50" in a 3.5-10x50, is the diameter of the objective lens in millimeters. A larger number indicates a larger lens. Large lenses are more bulky, but they also offer a bit larger field of view and let in more light, which makes your image clearer - especially in low-light conditions.

The low-light performance is due to the maximum exit pupil offered by a larger objective. Exit pupil is the size of the beam of light that leaves the scope. The exit pupil can easily be calculated (in mm) by dividing the diameter of the objective lens by the power. Therefore, a 4x32 scope has an exit pupil of 8mm. On a bright day, the human pupil will vary from 2mm at noon to 4mm later in the day. When your eyes become adapted to dark conditions, such as pre-dawn and after sunset, when big game is moving, the pupil will vary from 5mm to a maximum of 9mm.

On a bright day, having a scope with a larger exit pupil will have little effect. The only difference you may notice is that you will be able to move the scope and still maintain the image. In low light, the exit pupil is the biggest factor in getting as much light as possible to your eye.

Tube Diameter
The majority of the scopes on the market come with the main tube having a 1" dia. Several European models and now a few others also come with a 30mm tube dia. Contrary to popular belief, the larger tube does not allow more light to reach your eye. The exit pupil mentioned above controls this. However, a larger tube diameter does give added strength and rigidity due to the greater cross sectional area and larger rings and mounts. A larger tube diameter also allows for an increased range of adjustment for windage and elevation.

Length and Weight
When carrying your rifle for a long time, every extra ounce can weigh you down. While larger objectives and variable power have their benefits, the extra ounces quickly add up for all these features. If you are looking to minimize the weight of a rifle that you will be carrying a lot, consider a compact, fixed-power scope with a medium-sized objective. It will provide a large exit pupil with a bright image and weigh a lot less than a variable power scope.

How the scope works

Glass
ED glass or extra-low-dispersion glass delivers sharper images and superior color fidelity. The various wavelengths produced by standard lenses are wider and focused at different points along the optical axis. ED glass narrows and directs the wavelengths of visible light into a single focal point, which virtually eliminates chromatic aberrations and produces true-to-life colors.

High-definition glass (HD) is a term that’s often used to refer to ED glass. However, because HD is somewhat understood by the public, it’s also used to describe other optical features. In reality, HD isn’t a type of glass or lens, but a term that describes a higher light transmission or image resolution that goes beyond what the human eye can perceive.

Optical Coatings
The largest limitation of light transmission in riflescopes is reflected light. Anytime that light strikes a glass surface, up to 5% of the light can be reflected back. However, if a thin chemical film (commonly magnesium fluoride) is used to coat the surface of the glass, much of the reflection can be eliminated. The coating reduces light loss and glare, increasing light transmission and resulting in brighter, clearer images. By coating a surface with multiple films, the effect of the coating is increased, at times limiting the amount of reflected light to 0.25% to 0.5% per glass surface.

Reticle
The reticle is the aiming point within the scope — commonly called "crosshairs" due the standard arrangement being two thin wires that cross. They are also available in different combinations, including pointed posts, dots, multiple dots and bars. One of the more common reticles is a duplex or multiplex design where the main crosshairs are thicker for easier viewing (especially in low light), and as they near the center where they cross, the crosshairs become very fine. This is great for aiming at a background with dense cover. For long-range shooting, you'll want a reticle that displays MIL or MOA marks for hold over. Illuminated reticles vary greatly in their application. For hunting and long range, sub-MOA sized markings are ideal, while red-dots and other illuminated reticles are for close range and fast target acquisition. You will want to choose a reticle that best suits your style of shooting.

Focal Planes
First-focal-plane, or front-focal-plane reticles sit in front of the magnification mechanism, so the reticle scales with magnification for a correct ballistic ladder at any range. It is able to be sighted in at any part of the magnification scale. This also allows a range estimate if you know the target size relative to the MILs on your reticle.

Second focal plane, also known as rear focal plane, is the simplest and most common reticle placement style, sitting behind the magnification mechanism. This means the reticle stays the same size through the entire magnification range. With this focal plane, as you move through the magnification range, the point of impact shifts. This is why the scope needs to be sighted in at maximum magnification, so as you zoom out, the change is almost unnoticeable.

Hybrid reticles are becoming common among scopes with an electronically illuminated aiming point (think ¼-MOA red dot within MIL- or MOA-marked crosshairs). The focal point of the reticle rests in the second focal plane, where it stays the same size. The remainder of the reticle, MIL-spec crosshairs, zooms with your target so the hold-over compensation is accurate through the entire magnification range.

Custom Turrets
Some manufacturers can create custom windage and elevation turrets based on the ballistics you send them. The markings on the new turret typically correspond to the distance shot, to eliminate hold over. Factors include caliber, bullet weight, make, type, ballistic coefficient, velocity, elevation, cold-bore temperature, sight height over the bore line and zero distance.

Parallax Adjustment
The standard focusing knob on all scopes adjusts the reticle to your eye. Parallax occurs when viewing distant targets, and the reticle appears to shift or move. The parallax adjustment puts the reticle on the same focal plane as the target, so when you move your head, the crosshairs stay right where the projectile is going to be. Most scopes without adjustable objectives are factory set to compensate for parallax and focus at an optimum distance of 100 or 150 yds. Parallax is usually only an issue at magnification over 10X. When looking at a scope that will be used for distant targets in higher power, an adjustable objective is a good choice.

Gas Purging
Gas purging aids in the waterproofing process by preventing fogging of the inside of the lenses. Most common are nitrogen and argon gasses with some hybrids of the two in the mix.

Eye Relief
This is the comfortable distance that a scope can be held from the eye and still allow the shooter to see the entire image. It is literally the distance of your shooting eye to the eyepiece. It will usually be stated as a range, since in a variable-power scope the eye relief will vary with the power. Lateral adjustment can be made while mounting the scope to give the individual shooter the optimum eye relief. On a rifle, the more generous the eye relief, the better. This will allow you to acquire the target more quickly, which is a must for running shots. 3" to 4" is a good number that will fit most hunters. On large, magnum rifles, you want a maximum of relief, so when the rifle recoils, the scope doesn’t come back and possibly injure the shooter.

Common terms to understand

Field of View

Or FOV for short. What this means is how wide the area is (in ft.) that you can view at 100 yds. A higher number indicates a wider area, while a smaller number indicates a narrower area. The focal length of the objective lenses and the eyepiece design have the most impact on the actual FOV. The power of the scope has an inverse relationship with FOV. As the magnification increases, a smaller FOV results. If you are looking for a scope for quick target acquisition in close cover, you will need a wider field of view and therefore, a smaller power.

Minute of Angle

Or MOA for short, is a term to designate variances on a target at 100 yds. distant. Most commonly, it is used to describe the adjustment on a scope. 1 MOA is equal to 1.047". If a scope’s adjustments are listed at 1/4 MOA, then for every click of the adjustment knob, the bullet’s point of impact will move 0.26175", rounded to 1/4" at 100 yds.

MILs

Short-hand for milliradians, serves the same purpose as MOA; however, the math behind them is vastly different. MILs are more suited for fast target acquisition and quick shooting because there is more hold over involved than MOA. Here is a quick math lesson on MILs and MOA. 1 MIL = 3.438 MOA, 1 MOA = 1.047", both at 100 yds. So to find out how many inches are in 1 MIL, we have to multiply how many inches are in 1 MOA times how many MOA are in 1 MIL. The equation is 1.047 x 3.438 = 3.599" per MIL (rounded to 3-2/3"). If the scope says it is adjustable in 0.1 MIL clicks, this translates to 0.3599 MOA at 100 yds., or 0.3768153", or rounded to 1/3" for simplicity.

Windage and Elevation

Windage is the term for horizontal adjustment of your scope. Elevation is the adjustment of the scope in the vertical direction.

Types of scopes

Air-gun Scopes

The unique recoil pattern of spring piston air guns requires the purchase of a special air-gun scope. Unlike centerfire and rimfire rifles that recoil only in one direction, airguns recoil both rearward and forward. This double recoil action can damage scopes that are not designed to handle it.

Crossbow Scopes

Like airguns, crossbows also boast unique recoil patterns that can cause regular rifle scopes to lose their zero. Also, the reticles with drop compensation accommodate a bolt's flight trajectory.

Handgun, Shotgun and Muzzleloader Scopes

In short, they're all built to take on the recoil associated with the type of firearm they’re made for.

When mounting a scope on a handgun, you will need a special pistol scope that has an eye relief of 12" to 24". This will allow you to hold your handgun in a comfortable shooting stance and still see the full image through the scope.

Shotgun and muzzleloader scopes are configured to hunt in close quarters, 200 yds. or less. Their powers are low, with a max of 9X. Objective lenses are small to fit over the large barrels.

Purpose-Specific Configurations

Built for predator hunting and tactical use, nightvision and thermal-imaging scopes and accessories allow hunters to take safe, calculated shots without shining spotlights on the animals, preventing spooking.

Region

International

Hunting Bullet Buyer's Guide

Bass Pro Shops Cabelas — Sun, 11 Aug 2019 21:44:44 +0000

Hunting Bullet Buyer's Guide

Bass Pro Shops… Sun, 08/11/2019 - 16:44

Category

Hunting Gear

Selecting the right ammunition for your hunting trip was pretty straightforward decades ago. It seemed that there were fewer calibers to choose from, and a bullet was a bullet in those days. Today you’ll find myriad options on the ammo shelves at your favorite sporting goods store, and discussion of ammunition can often sound like a college lesson in aerodynamics if you don’t speak the language. If you’re new to shooting or just want to brush up on the lingo, hopefully this will help.

The basics of modern hunting bullets center on three areas: design, shape and weight. Design has to do with the construction of the bullet. It can be a projectile made entirely of lead, made entirely of another metal such as copper, or a combination of metals such as a lead core or interior encased in another kind of metal.

Tip: Shop all Hornady Bullets here

BT – Boattail (pointed tip with the perimeter of the base angled inward)

JFP – Jacketed flat point (sides are fully jacketed to an exposed flat tip)

Shape is rather self-explanatory, but it is closely tied to a bullet’s design. The abbreviations used to indicate bullet shape and design are often also related to the construction. Here is a partial list of popular shape/configuration designations found in modern rifle ammunition:

BTHP – Boattail hollow point (boattail with a hollow-point tip)

The final of the basic three bullet descriptors is weight as expressed in grains; the higher the number, the heavier the bullet. If you grab a box of cartridges for your .30-06 off the shelf and the box reads 165-gr. BTSP, you’re holding a box of shells that will shoot 165-grain boattail soft point bullets.

JHP – Jacketed hollow point (sides are fully jacketed to a hollow-point tip)

CB – Cast bullet (jacketless and cast from a single metal or alloy)

Though these are the basics of bullet construction, ammunition manufacturers often throw their own designs and abbreviations into the mix. The Nosler Ballistic Tip and Winchester Silvertip, for example, are both jacketed, pointed

JSP – Jacketed soft point (sides are fully jacketed to an exposed lead tip)

bullets with their own tip material. Whenever there is any doubt in your mind about selecting the correct ammunition for your firearm, be sure to ask a sales associate or customer service representative before you buy, as most ammunition points of sale do not accept returns.

PSP – Pointed soft point (bullet tapers to a sharp, softer metal tip)

FMJ – Full metal jacket (bullet core enveloped in a jacket except for base)

Weight retention is key to efficient bullet performance, especially on big game, and ammunition makers have a number of ways to ensure optimal expansion without the bullet coming apart. Nosler’s famous Partition® bullet is one example. A specially designed jacket tapers to a soft point that will "mushroom" on impact and allow the jacket to peel back. This increases both shock and the diameter of the wound channel. What makes the Nosler Partition® special is that the core is divided into two sections - a front section engineered for optimal expansion, and a rear section designed to hold together and use its mass to drive the projectile deeper into game.

RN – Round nose (front of bullet is very rounded)

FN – Flat nose (projectile with a very flat front)

Bonding is another method of keeping bullets together on impact. It’s a process whereby the copper jacket is "bonded" to the core bullet material (usually lead) in order to prevent the core and jacket from separating. Bonded bullets are an excellent choice for big-game hunters and have delivered impressive results in the field. Among the popular brands of bonded bullets available are Federal’s Trophy Bonded® Bear Claw and Fusion™, the Swift A-frame® and Sirocco®, Speer’s Grand Slam®, Remington’s Core-Lokt® Ultra, Nosler’s Accubond™ and Hornady’s Interbond™ to name a few.

RNFP – Round nose flat point (bullet front rounds to a sudden flat point)

FP – Flat point (tip tapers somewhat to a flat point)

RNL – Round nosed lead (round nose bullet made of lead or lead alloy)

HP – Hollow point (tip has an open cavity for rapid expansion)

The solid bullet is one that has no jacket and core, but is one kind of metal throughout. Technically, musket balls and lead conicals are solids because they are lead all the way through, but these days some hunters in pursuit of big and dangerous game often opt for something more modern. Barnes makes an excellent solid copper-alloy bullet that performs very well on big and nasty game animals. Solids are generally not intended to expand but instead to dedicate all of their energy to penetration of thick hide and bone. There are expandable "solids" in the Barnes

SJSP – Semi-jacketed soft point (soft point partially enclosed in a jacket)

SJ – Semi-jacketed (metal jacket extends only part way up bullet sides)

X™ line of bullets, and they’re engineered to open large wound channels without the possibility of jacket and core separation, because no jacket or core is involved in their construction.

There is truly no shortage of choices when it comes to the selection of modern bullets that rifle hunters have available. Trial and error at a rifle range will teach you which bullets shoot best from your gun. Remember, however, when it comes down to the shot at that trophy of a lifetime, shot-placement is every bit as critical as the kind of bullet you shoot.

SJHP – Semi-jacketed hollow point (hollow point partially jacketed)

SP – Soft point (bullet with a tip made of softer metal for rapid expansion)

SPTZ – Spitzer (a pointed bullet with a flat, untapered base)

Region

International

Knife Buyer's Guide

Bass Pro Shops Cabelas — Thu, 11 Jul 2019 15:51:48 +0000

Knife Buyer's Guide

Bass Pro Shops… Thu, 07/11/2019 - 10:51

Category

Hunting Gear

Whether you’re hunting, camping, butchering or just going about your everyday business, the right knife makes life much easier. But which knife is the right one? Simply typing in the word “knife” into an Internet search and hitting enter pulls up an overwhelming amount of options. Heck, even narrowing it down and typing something as specific as “skinning knife” leaves you with seemingly countless choices. But don’t worry – this buyer’s guide will help you whittle down the choices so you can pick the exact knife you need.

Knives by Application

•Boning – Should have a thin blade 5" to 6½" in length. You’ll want a fairly stiff blade for boning out big game, while a flexible blade is preferred for turkeys or upland birds.
•Skinning – Generally short with a deep drop, limiting the area of impact. Ideal for working in tight areas when caping an animal.
•Slicing – Have a narrow, thin blade, usually 8" to 12" in overall length and are effective when cutting ultrathin slices of meat. The more flexible the blade, the easier cutting thin slices is. Specialty slicers have a curved or scimitar-style tip to assist in tight spots, like between the wing and breast of birds.
•Everyday-Carry (EDC) – Should be small and light. However, if your knife is excessively small, some of the tasks you run into throughout the day may be too much for it to handle. A knife with a 3" blade is often a good balance between compactness and functionality, but this may not be perfect for everyone. Consider what you do most on a daily basis when deciding which EDC to purchase.
•Tactical – Designed for self-defense, but many can double as EDC knives. They are typically dark in color to aid in concealment. Easy-to-conceal folding-blade tactical knives generally have assisted opening for fast access. Deep-pocket clips that mount close to the end of the handle are often used so little knife is visible when it’s clipped to a pocket. Fixed-blade knives are harder to conceal and carry, but they’re stronger and provide instant access.
•Replaceable-blade – With these knives, you’ll never have to sharpen a blade again. The blades are dispensable and replacements are relatively inexpensive, so when one blade becomes dull, you simply change it out for one that’s razor sharp. These are used for many applications, from skinning to slicing.
•Fixed vs. folding blade – Fixed-blade knives are stronger, while folding blades are more compact and thus easier to carry.

Blade Materials

Blades are made of a wide variety of materials, and each has its own advantages. There is upside and downside to every material. Here is a breakdown of the most common materials you’ll encounter when shopping for the ideal blade.

•Crucible – Developed by Crucible Steel for the cutlery industry and known as the pinnacle of knife-making metals. It’s tempered for hardness, making it excellent at holding an edge. Also, it’s extremely corrosion-resistant, ensuring it will last for years, but fairly hard to sharpen.
•High-carbon steel – Also called cutlery steel. Holds an excellent edge and is easy to sharpen. A higher carbon content means increased blade hardness. The downsides to high-carbon steel are that it’s somewhat brittle, has a tendency to rust and reacts to both acids and alkalis, causing it to discolor. The discoloration doesn’t affect its performance.
•Stainless steel – Excellent if you want a blade that doesn’t discolor, but this alloy is a real chore to sharpen once it loses its edge. However, the extreme hardness does help the blade hold its original edge longer.
•Titanium – Good for all-purpose knives. Lightweight, durable and retains sharpness longer than steel. Relatively easy to sharpen. Titanium-coated knives or knives with titanium edges don’t have the same quality as those made purely of titanium or titanium alloys. Since sharpening removes metal, titanium-coated blades have a shorter life span.
•Ceramic – Lightweight, hard, dense space-age material that is stronger than steel, but far more brittle. Ceramic blades hold an edge significantly longer than steel and can be manufactured into much thinner blades, which makes cutting considerably easier. They are best used for slicing and should never be used for chopping due to their brittleness. Unlike steel, their hardness makes them impervious to chemical reactions with either acidic or alkaline foods. Diamond hones are used for sharpening and repairing chips.

Construction
A blade’s hardness is determined by using a Rockwell machine that forces a small penetrator into the metal’s surface. The depth of penetration is correlated to an A, B or C scale reading called the Rockwell hardness scale. A higher number is assigned to harder steel that allows less penetration. Blade steels are measured on the "C" scale (Rc) and range from Rc 55-60. In comparison, a diamond will range in the 80s on the Rockwell "C".

Stainless steel bears a number of industry designations, generally with a number such as 154 or 420, followed by alpha characters like CM or HC. The numerical value indicates the amount of each element used, and the letters reveal the alloys that were used. 154CM is a high-carbon, high-alloy stainless steel made with 1.05% carbon, 0.5% manganese, 0.4% - 0.55% Molybdenum and 14.0% chromium. Therefore, the 154 indicates 1% carbon, 0.5% manganese and 0.4% molybdenum. The CM indicates chromium. This grade of steel is widely used by top specialty-knife makers. The chart below compares the most common blade materials in terms of hardness, corrosion resistance and edge quality.

•Forged – Typically high quality and recommended for most applications. A prominent bolster between handle and blade will usually identify a forged knife, although a few are made without a bolster. They are usually heavier, better balanced and easier to keep sharp. Also, with care, they can last for generations.
•Stamped – Cut or stamped out of flat metal stock. They don’t undergo the numerous steps associated with forging and are thus lighter in weight and usually not as well balanced. Since the metal is not as dense as a forged knife, stamped knives won’t hold their edge as well.
•Sintering – An innovative process that results in all the durability, flexibility and light weight of titanium, plus the incredible edge retention of ceramic materials. Unlike ceramic blades, sintered titanium knives can be resharpened with standard sharpening stones. Some forged knives have parts that are manufactured separately and sintered together to form a knife of good quality at a lower cost than forged knives.

Blade Types

•Spear point – Symmetrical geometry on its point and down the blade give it two identical edges.
•Trailing point – Cut upward, higher than the spine of the blade. Excellent for skinning and caping.
•Sheepsfoot – Has a blunt, rounded tip and straight cutting edge. The lack of a traditional point reduces the chances of accidental punctures. Great for cutting around inflatable watercraft, livestock and during emergencies.
•Drop point – Largely popular. Common and especially useful in EDC knives. It has a lowered point that provides control and adds tip strength.
•Clip point – Similar to the drop point. An excellent all-around knife. It has a lowered tip with a long belly area that punctures well and is great for slicing.
•Tanto point –Specializes in piercing. It has a thick point that absorbs impact well.
•Gut hook – Used for skinning and field dressing. The hook is used to split the skin, unzipping the animal.
•Saw blade – Has a toothed edge that cuts when force is applied and a back-and-forth cutting motion is employed. Used to cut through hard material such as bone or wood.
•Saw blade – Curved tip reduces possibility of punctures when working in tight areas. Good all-purpose blade.

Edges

•Plain – A sharpened edge with no serrations or teeth – sometimes referred to as a smooth edge. Excellent for slicing, control, and accuracy. Produces clean cuts.
•Serrated – A more aggressive, saw-like cutting edge. Although they produce unrefined cuts, serrated blades retain their ability to cut long after straight blades have lost their edge.

Blade Grinds

•Hollow – Produces an extremely thin edge that is excellent for slicing. Many hunting knives use this grind.
•Chisel – Only ground on one side. This creates an extremely sharp knife. However, it isn’t symmetrical, forcing the knife to curve when slicing, thus making accuracy difficult.
•Sabre – Leaves a fairly thick edge that is ultrastrong, making it excellent for chopping.
•Flat –Excellent at slicing yet strong enough to chop. Ideal for kitchen cutlery.
•Convex – Essentially the opposite of a hollow grind. This leaves a lot of steel behind the edge, making it extremely strong – excellent for jobs that require a lot of force.

Blade Finishes

There seems to be countless blade finishes on the market, all with unique names. The purposes for blade finishes range from purely cosmetic to rust resistance to friction reduction. Below are the most popular coatings. Many finishes fit into one of these categories even though they may have a different, brand-specific name.

•Black electroplating – A nonreflective coating bonded to steel using an electrostatic process. It reduces the steel’s reflectivity.
•Teflon® – Slick and cuts better because of reduced friction.
•Satin – Has a medium luster. Shows fine buffing lines with two directional finishes that better display the bevels of a blade. Used for cosmetic purposes.
•Black-coated – Gives the blade a dark matte finish. This helps with concealment. Also ups a knife’s corrosion resistance.

Lock and Joint Mechanisms

•Lockback – Similar to a fixed-blade knife, though still not as rigid. When opened, this blade locks into position, giving it more strength and stability.
•Slip joint – Blade doesn’t lock. Rather, it’s held in place by a spring device that allows the blade to fold when a certain amount of pressure is applied.
•Frame and liner locks – Can be opened easily with one hand. Most often used on folding tactical knives.

Handle Materials

•Wood – Offers an excellent grip but requires regular care. Keep it out of water and rub occasionally with mineral oil.
•Plastic – May become somewhat brittle in time and can be slippery in the hand. Plastic-impregnated wood has properties similar to wood but requires less care and lasts longer.
•Synthetics (G10, Kraton, Micrarta, polymide, etc.) – Provide phenomenal grip and comfort, plus they last longer than natural materials.
•Metal – Fairly indestructible when used for handle material. Can be slippery or firm – many knives have a patterned metal grip, which provides a solid grasp in all conditions.

Region

United States

Kimber Mountain Ascent Rifle Review

Bass Pro Shops Cabelas — Tue, 02 Jul 2019 14:27:52 +0000

Kimber Mountain Ascent Rifle Review

Bass Pro Shops… Tue, 07/02/2019 - 09:27

Category

Hunting Gear

By Mark Nelsen

One of the fun things about a bucket-list adventure is it typically takes a great deal of planning. In some cases, years of planning. Such was the case when my best friend and I opted for our lifelong bucket-list trip – chasing Dall’s sheep rams in the northern Brooks Range of Alaska.

We planned this hunt for years, and when we finally put down deposits and started making payments towards our dream hunt, we were still a few years out. That gave me plenty of time to plan, particularly when it came to what rifle I wanted to shoot, and more importantly, carry for 10 days in the mountains.

LIGHT WEIGHT AND PERFORMANCE

After a lot of research, I opted for Kimber’s Mountain Ascent Bolt-Action 84L Rifle. Weighing in around five pounds before optics, this rifle was the lightweight offering I craved for this hunt, and knowing I would use this rifle after the bucket-list hunt on regular elk hunts in the Rockies, I wanted something light. The Kimber fit the bill perfectly.

With light weight comes some sacrifices, but Kimber solves all those potential issues of recoil and accuracy in this package. It comes out of the box with sub-MOA accuracy with match-grade barrels, chambers and triggers. Pillar and glass bedding provides a firm frame while the Kevlar/carbon-fiber stock add to the overall weight reduction. The muzzle brake reduces felt recoil and is removable for those who prefer a non-brake barrel. The stock is equipped with a 1” Pachmyr Decelerator recoil pad, which helps absorb the shock of such a lightweight package.

One of the interesting things Kimber did in introducing this family of rifles is they matched the action sizes for the specific caliber (it’s available in five calibers – I chose .30-06). The Mountain Ascent has controlled round feeding, a Mauser-style claw extractor and a three-position, Winchester-Model-70-type wing safety. The trigger is fully adjustable but I’ve yet to feel the need to make any adjustments.

COOL CAMO STOCK

I chose the camo model in OptiFade Open Country Concealment pattern because I thought it was cool and it really gave the entire package a unique look. This rifle points and aims beautifully. It performed great with a variety of factory loads and I expected nothing less in the field.

IN THE FIELD

The Kimber was a dream to carry on the sheep hunt. When it was attached to my pack I really didn’t notice the added weight of a rifle, and I didn’t find myself constantly switching sides with the sling when hiking with the rifle on my shoulder.

Unfortunately, and a story for another time, the sheep hunt was a bust. However, I did get a chance later in the year to put the Kimber to a field test on a late-season elk hunt at Dismal River Club in Nebraska. Again, the rifle was a dream to carry, and performed as advertised on a mature bull taken with one shot.

I own a lot of rifles, but the Kimber Mountain Ascent 84L has a new favorite place in the front of the safe, as it’s now my go-to big-game rifle for ease of carry and shootability.

Jim Shockey's Essential Gear

Bass Pro Shops Cabelas — Mon, 24 Jun 2019 19:35:35 +0000

Jim Shockey's Essential Gear

Bass Pro Shops… Mon, 06/24/2019 - 14:35

Category

Hunting Gear

Every once in a long while, a product comes along that revolutionizes the process of hunting – the compound bow, in-line muzzleloader, trail cameras and now the Havalon family of knives. I can vividly remember the first time I handled each of these revolutionary hunting products (each was more of an epiphany than a product), but especially the first time I held a Havalon.
It was on a moose hunt in the Yukon. I was guiding and my client handed me a Havalon to use on the moose he’d just taken. I skinned and cut up that entire moose with one disposable, razor-sharp blade, no physical effort, no sharpening, easy as cutting butter with a hot blade. When we loaded the moose, I excused myself to make a satellite telephone call to my office. Back in civilization at that time, we were in negotiations for an endorsement deal with a major traditional knife maker. I told my office that I would be unable to continue the negotiations because it would be disingenuous of me – I was holding in my hands the future of hunting knives. I told them over the satellite phone that I believed in 10 years, every hunter would carry a Havalon knife as part of their essential gear for hunting.

"Havalon knives are revolutionary, ground-breaking, and as I said and believe, they are the future of hunting."

Since then, I’ve carried a Havalon knife on every single hunting trip. The Havalon Titan and Evolve, both of which I was closely involved with on the design end, have become essentials, hunting gear that I cannot travel without. My Leupold binoculars are also part of that
gear - can’t imagine hunting without them. I’d feel blinded without them. The same goes for my satellite telephone and Primos Trigger Sticks and Garmin inReach, these are always with me around the world and I wouldn’t consider taking a trip into the hinterlands without them. All these products make me a better hunter or better able to focus on the task at hand, the hunt.
When I think about it, my essentials list is actually pretty short. Most items that hunters carry with them are unnecessary, extra weight and frankly, of dubious worth in real hunting conditions. Over the years, I’ve tried to pare down the stuff I lug out into the wild lands to only those items that are absolute necessities. Much as I, like most hunters, love gadgets and widgets, I leave those at home where they belong and take with me only the items that have withstood the test of time and necessity.

Base Layer Buyer's Guide

Bass Pro Shops Cabelas — Sat, 22 Jun 2019 19:59:37 +0000

Base Layer Buyer's Guide

Bass Pro Shops… Sat, 06/22/2019 - 14:59

Category

Hunting Gear

Fabric content, weights, technologies - everything you need to know about base layers.

By Mat Brost

Under Armour ColdGear Mock Top

Layering clothing has evolved into the premier method of staying warm on winter’s coldest days. An effective layering system essentially consists of three layers that work together to insulate, manage moisture and protect from the elements - an outer layer for protection, a middle layer for warmth, and at the core, a good base layer for warmth and comfort.

Depending on your activity, various styles of base layers are available. Some are built solely for wear as a layer, while others are tailored for wear alone after shedding outer layers when temperatures rise. Smooth outer fibers on your base layer allow middle layers to slip on and off easily, while textured outer fibers may have better heat-retaining qualities. Available tops include short- and long-sleeve styles, crew, mock, hooded and zippered options. There are base layers available in women’s-specific styles designed to fit the female form. Some base layers are designed for everyday use, while others are specifically for hunting and high-movement activiti

es. Advancements have also made performance boxer briefs a popular option for keeping your core temperature up.

Fabrics

The fabric content of a base layer generally comes down to personal preference and which fabrics have the inherent properties most suitable for your specific outdoor activity. The most common base layer fabrics are:

Cabela's ECWCS Heavyweight Top

Wool - It's flexible and highly durable. Plus, it's an excellent traditional insulator. Wool repels small amounts of liquid on the surface and wicks moisture away from the skin, but becomes easily saturated and doesn't dissipate moisture as well as synthetics. Wool also naturally resists odor and is flame retardant. Most wool garments are susceptible to shrinkage and may require special care, but technological advancements have made machine-washable wool possible.

Silk - Known for its soft, smooth feel, silk is also strong and moderately abrasion-resistant. It's highly absorbent, so it's not ideal for intense aerobic activities, unless treated to enhance its moisture-wicking ability. The evolution of machine-washable silk has made it a popular base-layer option. Machine- and hand-washable silks are common as well.

Polyester and other synthetics - Dries quickly, resists stretching and shrinking, and considered especially durable, lightweight and easy to care for. Made of synthetic fibers, polyester has a reputation for feeling less natural against the skin, but is generally abrasion-resistant. Its superior breathability, moisture-wicking and warmth-retaining properties make up for what it may lack in softness, and it's by far the easiest fabric to care for.

Fabric Weights

When it comes to selecting a fabric weight, it helps to keep both outdoor temperatures and your activity level in mind to maintain consistent warmth.

Lightweight - Lightweight base layers are ideal for high activity levels in cold weather or low activity levels in cool weather.

Midweight - Medium-weight base layers are versatile, offering optimal performance for a variety of cold-weather activity levels.

Heavyweight - Providing intense insulation, heavyweight base layers are ideal for low activity levels in cold weather. Polar Weight is the warmest base layer for extreme-cold conditions and is fleeced on both sides for maximum heat retention. Heavyweight and Polar Weight base layers generally are not ideal for high-movement activities because they can be restrictive and become too hot.

Technology

Depending on your cold-weather activities, additional technology and treatments can lead to enhanced comfort and enjoyment.

Moisture Wicking - Wicks perspiration away from your skin and dries quickly. Wicking fibers transport perspiration away from the skin to the outer layer where it evaporates quickly.

Body Mapping - Versatile for numerous weather conditions and temperatures. Three weights of fabric are strategically placed to provide superior thermal regulation where it is needed most.

Four-Way Stretch - Ideal for high-movement activities. Stretches in all directions for enhanced freedom of motion. Scent Control - Designed for hunting. Retains your body's scent. Antimicrobial - Prevents the growth of bacteria and keeps the garment fresher when in use and between washings.

Hunting Gear

Hunting Knife Buyer's Guide: What You Need to Know

How Do You Intend to Use the Knife?

What Size of Hunting Knife Do You Want?

What to Buy, a Fixed Blade or Folding Knife?

Consider Knife Blade Design

The Types of Knife Blade Material to Choose

Knife Handles: Look for Durability

Hunting Boots Buyer's Guide

Proper hunting boots can make or break your hunt – make sure you're equipped with a good-fitting pair

Insulation

Waterproofness

Upland boots

Multi-purpose Boots

High Country boots

Hikers

Overboots

Rubber Hunting Boots

Rubber Boots Buyer's Guide

Anatomy

Specialty Features

Types

When to Replace Your Rubber Boots

Other Factors

Get the Ultimate Hunt Camp – Cabela's Tents

There’s No Such Thing as too Much Room in a Tent

Tent Ventilation & The Greenhouse Effect

Tent Floors to Keep Out Ground Moisture

Advantages of Remote Hunting Camps

Bringing a generator to hunt camp is a game changer - watch this video

Rifle Scope Buyer's Guide

Hunting Bullet Buyer's Guide

Knife Buyer's Guide

Kimber Mountain Ascent Rifle Review

LIGHT WEIGHT AND PERFORMANCE

COOL CAMO STOCK

IN THE FIELD

Jim Shockey's Essential Gear

"Havalon knives are revolutionary, ground-breaking, and as I said and believe, they are the future of hunting."

Base Layer Buyer's Guide

Fabrics

Fabric Weights

Technology

Proper hunting boots can make or break your hunt – make sure
you're equipped with a good-fitting pair